With all of the gimmickry and flimsy faddery surrounding much of Bangkok’s fine dining scene today, it’s nice to see when a restaurant decides to strip itself back down to basics. This is what has happened at the new-and-revived Madison, which for years delighted Bangkokians with its stylish take on the classic American steakhouse. No wonder, then, that a select group of Chaine members congregated around a convivial shared table for a taste of Madison 2.0. at the Anantara Siam Bangkok hotel.

A predilection for rich and buttery flavors dominated the menu, starting with the whiskey-cured king salmon with a hit of preserved lemon and New England chowder presented pot pie-style. The pièce de resistance, of course, was the amusingly-named “Steak Avenue”, which illustrated the range of what Madison has on offer: Kagoshima Wagyu tenderloin, grass-fed NY striploin, and black angus short rib, all perfectly cooked. These dishes were also perfectly paired, of course, with a collection of excellent wines that ranged from the Charles Le Bel Inspiration 1818 Brut to the Chateau Lagrange, Saint-Julien 2014. After a parting chocolate soufflé, some members found it hard to say good-bye, finding refuge at perennial favorite Acqua for a night cap or two.