The first event of the year for the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs Bangkok-Rattanakosin always showcases the best in Thai fine dining. So it made sense to go to Le Du Kaan, the latest opening by megastar Chef “Ton” Thitid Tassanakajohn. Unlike the cozy and convivial confines of the original Le Du, this one goes all out on the glamor factor, serving high-concept Thai dishes in a succession of family-style “samrub” on the 56th floor of the Empire Tower in the central business district.

Guests were wowed by the view as well as by the excellent wines, chosen by acting Echanson Molchaya Techapaibul (who also happens to be our bailli). After multiple glasses of De Sousa Chemin de Terroir Brut Cotes de Blancs NV, we drank PJ Kuhn Riesling Quarzit Trocken 2022 with a selection of “appetizers” that included Chef Ton’s take on papaya salad with soft shell crab and an Isan-style “gang om” that included a chicken mousse ravioli. A Premier Cru Chablis from Saint Antoine Montmains 2022 and Francois & Fils Cote Rotie Roziers 2020 accompanied the mains of grilled pork and tongue, Southern-inspired squid and a fish-and-morning glory curry, before we ended the night with a très leches cake garnished with Phuket pineapple.