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This year has already hosted a whirlwind of activity nearly rivalling the controlled chaos of Paris’s Olympic opening ceremony. January saw a demonstration of polished modern Thai cuisine from Chef Sujiira “Aom” Pongmorn at Khaan, but six months ago feels like eons away. All the same, we still remember the year’s earlier highlights like Chef Aom’s reinvented biryani, the whole chicken smoked in straw at our blockbuster event at Sühring in February, convening with friends from all over the world at the Grande Chapître in March, and the camaraderie of the champagne meal at Cagette in April.
In May, members donned their very best tuxedos and gowns for a black-tie event at modern Italian culinary institution Clara. Acclaimed chef Christian Martena created a menu especially for the event, showcasing Italian cuisine in innovative ways: tomatoes in different textures with burrata mousse and smoked Cantabrian anchovies, for example, and a “bone marrow explosion” ravioli paired with wagyu tartare and burnt bread. The wines were similarly interesting: Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso DOCG 2018 to go with the baby lamb rack and “modernist” parmigiana, and aVilla Russiz Chardonnay Grafin De La Tour DOC 2018 paired with the charcoal scampi in morel dashi.
In June, a month commonly pockmarked with holidays and absences, members clamored for the OMGD event celebrating the wines of Napa and Sonoma at Stage, featuring another menu crafted especially for the event — all the better to show off that Opus One!
Later that month, two full tables of diners headed to the dining room at Signature, where Chef Thierry Drapeau treated them to his own “signature” (get it?) brand of “floral cuisine”. That meant heirloom tomatoes supported by a thyme sorbet and coriander flowers, arctic char festooned in caviar and phlox, and A4 Wagyu with black garlic and tagette. As befitting a Chaîne event, much wine was had, but this writer’s personal favorite might have been the Valeria Naudin Gevrey Chambertin ‘Regnard’ 2021, chosen to go with the pigeon pie.
Finally, earlier this month hosted a “Baltic take on caviar” helmed by enterprising chef Aleksandrs Nasikallovs, who flew back to Bangkok expressly for the event. A procession of beautiful dishes featuring caviar commenced, including tried-and-true treatments like blini with sour cream but branching into hand-dived sea scallops with Kaluga Gold caviar, as well as pickled mackerel with Ostra caviar. Naturally, the wines also paid homage to the star of the show (that would be caviar): Nals Margried Mantele Sauvignon Blanc 2021 with the Gillardeau oysters, Hudson Vineyards Red Blend Phoenix 2018 with the venison, and lots and lots of bottles of Billecart Salmon Brut Nature NV.
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